Monday, December 04, 2006

The Couture Crotch - a view from the inside

Risque - not hardly, - the couture crotch is what makes these slacks comfy, pretty, and durable - sorry to disappoint, no racy stories here at Glorious Hats. But how else are you going to be tempted to read about the construction details of a pair of slacks? To foil either Camel's Toe front or Stinky Diaper back, the solution is perfecting a pattern to flow with one's own body - a time consuming and mind challenging task. At least for me and this body. However, once"the pattern" was done, whenever it seems time for a new pair of slacks I can focus on the fun stuff - the construction details. Highlights are no show hems, the couture crotch, and the friendly elastic waist.

No show hems require two rows of hand stitching. This supports the weight without tugging on the outside fabric, leaving a clean slick look.


The couture crotch relys on hand stitching. Overcasting the crotch curve is truely a Haute Couture technique practiced in the finest French salons. It keeps the seam together and soft. Leaving a wide seam to press open from the end of the curves to the waist lets the front and back lay smoothly on the body.

The friendly elastic waist. A boon to most "over 30" bodies. Is subtle, soft, comfortable and holds the pants up effectively.
The secret is attaching the elastic only to the turned under side - NOT sewing it through two layers of fabric. Stitching it to the 4 seam lines, front, back, both sides keeps the elastic turned under.

The proof is in the wearing. These olive wide wale corduroy slacks are now in pilot testing and yes they are meeting the standards. To move about, to sit, to walk without binding or bagging.

Hurray, this is a good day.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

they look amazing!

I don't really sew stuff for me to wear. Maybe I need to get on this.