Sunday, March 09, 2008

Trilby Hat Project from "Stylish Cloches"

This past week have spent about 4 hours working on the Trilby.

Mostly preparing fabric and did sew a bit on the lining.

Sometimes it puzzles me why we making things from fabrics sewing ..... the proportion of time spent at the sewing machine is so small in comparison to the time spent in other tasks.

So what comprised the 4 hours - backing fashion fabric with interfacing - had to feel and audition a number of fusible interfacings residing in the stash. Choose one with a firm hand to beef up the fabric, yet not stiff. Soaked it in hot water then let it dry (so it will not shrink if the finished hat ever get washed.

Then the time consuming but important bonding - the fashion fabrics are now ready for marking and cutting.

So next Trilby session will be doing that and finishing the lining.

*if you are anxious for more photo details pop over to this flickr album "Sewing a Hat."


Cristina - madhatter wannabe said...

Jane!! This week I will try to give some well deserved time to the trilby project. I'm back from Germany and looking forward to some hat making.
Do you wash the interfacing before ironing it on? I don't have a clue about these things! Although with the fabric I will be using (wool and dark colors) I don't expect I will need to wash it ever.
Looking forward to this!

Glorious Hats said...

Super Cristina,

I do usually shrink the interfacing - this also seems to decrease the "bubble factor" even if not washing the fabrics. Soak in very hot water for 10 minutes, squeeze water out - do no wring. roll in towel to remove more water, hang to air dry.

when dry lay on fabric wrong side and follow bonding instructions for the type of interfacing being used.

If that is not clear, just email me for more detail.

Thoughts on Life and Millinery. said...

I am a fanatic about horsehair interfacing, the kind they use on men's suits to line the lapels.
Kate turned me onto never bubbles or buckles, and the fabric when bonded still have a fluid flow to the hand.

Expensive and hard to find; only one store in all of Houston carries it, and it is greyish in tone, so I have to double layer any white fabrics, but it is still worth it.

Can't wait to see how Trilby comes out. I love the trilby design Kate created; it will be fun to compare patterns in the end.

Thoughts on Life and Millinery. said...

Oh and one more comment: I find sewing fabric hats takes much more time than blocking straws or wools, yet people seem to think fabric hats should cost less, or have less "prestige" that straw or felt. (Eyes crossing at this point.)
Getting a tip set in perfectly is hard!

Glorious Hats said...

Oh yes Jill, hear you loud and clear - the sew in horsehair is fabulous. Have none in the stash and no where in town to buy it. And have not looked for it online.

Also, the book calls for iron-on interfacing and though cannot read the Japanese have guess at the wt. - Am trying to keep fairly close to their directions for the first run.

The Palmer-Pletsh interfacings are very good however (stocked up at a sewing conference a few years ago) and had enough of the Perfect-Fuse Tailor on hand. It too is expensive, yet worth it in quality.

Say, maybe we can have a hat show when Cristina and I get done and you can share the K. Trilby - is that is the one you did with the swirl fabric in the tip? Gorgeous!

Cristina - madhatter wannabe said...

Jane, I started today with the hat and hope to post about it soon. But I must say that I have a bad feeling about it. I did tell you that Japanese patterns do not include seam allowance, but now I'm not so sure about the patterns in this particular book.
I've finished the lining and it looks huge.
Also, when looking at the text in the book, while I understand virtually nothing I can see that occasionally she mentions measurements that seem important and I have no clue what they are!
I will try to find a fellow japanese milliner online for some help... should be possible don't you think? Its the world wide web after all!

Glorious Hats said...

Hi Christina, Well, it is a challenge for sure. :)

I measured the head area and it is slightly bigger than 23 inches for the large -- how ever there is a lot of fabric being turned up into the cown when sewing in the internal headband. That will take up quite a bit of room, even with narrow seam allowances. So I did choose to treat the pattern as one without SAs

Also, as best I can tell, the SA she calls for are very small. 6mm and 7mm - so even if the SA is included in the pattern, it will make a larger than anticipated hat but not a huge difference.

When comparing the instructions for the Trilby with the other patterns - it did seem as though this one treated the pattern as though it has SAs, while some of the others appear to use the patterns as though there are no SAs. A bit confusing, yet again part of the adventure.

What I got from the numbers is the SA amounts and the pinning order.

Jill mentioned the difficulties in getting the crown to tip sewn so they match correctly. From what I know and do in sewing is that the order of pinning as shown by the numbers is one way of achieving greater accuracy with pinning.

Also, I will say, because my preference is to sew with a slightly wider SA, I did cut a larger SA (more like 3/8"), then trimmed after pressing.

To make the called for SA - I actually made the under brim pattern 1mm smaller at crown edge and at Center back.

Remember where you had to undo and cut the lining and resew the Ship and Shore hat? That was due to "turn of cloth"-- ie the inside, underside, lining side... is a wee bit smaller than the top or outside. So by calling for the larger SA on those pieces, she is creating a natural smaller piece for those areas - and when we attach them and turn the hat to the right side there should be no ripples.

Gotta go to dinner.. but if not clear, can try to explain more later. Hugs,Jane